Kuih Ketayap

The uncooked face stays slightly tacky, which lets the roll seal itself instead of springing open. A flipped pancake dries on both sides and cracks as you roll it. Simply lift it off once the surface has lost its shine.

Nothing tastes quite like pandan, but frozen leaves are sold in Asian grocers and can be blended with a little water and squeezed. Failing that, make the pancakes plain with coconut milk alone: they lose the colour, but the palm sugar filling is the heart of the sweet anyway. Be wary of bottled bright-green extracts, which colour more than they flavour.

It should be sticky and almost dry rather than syrupy. Any free liquid left will soak the pancake and the roll will unravel. Stir for about twelve minutes until the mixture moves as one mass when pushed with a spoon, then let it cool before filling.