A northern winter is not cooked from freshly picked vegetables. It is cooked from two things: what is still standing in the ground despite the frost, and what autumn put into store. Cabbages and leeks belong to the first group, and cold improves them rather than ruining them. Squashes, swedes and the hard roots belong to the second, which is why several recipes on this page also appear on the autumn one.

Ethiopia makes gomen of it, collard leaves simmered at length with onion, garlic, ginger and turmeric and served with injera. Finland turns swede into a baked mash sweetened with molasses, lanttulaatikko, which sits in the oven for an hour until the top caramelises. And Morocco is a reminder that winter has a fruit of its own: orange and cinnamon salad reaches the table exactly when citrus is the only fruit genuinely in season on this side of the world.

As everywhere on Vegetive, the seasons named here are those of the northern hemisphere and they are reversed in the south: the winter described on this page is the summer of Brazil, South Africa and Australia. No season page names a month, since the same month is not the same season on the two sides of the equator.

Sorting is done on the ingredients, and only when they are fresh. Sauerkraut, tinned tomatoes and frozen vegetables belong to no season at all, since they are on the shelf in every month.

The recipes

Cabbage okonomiyakiJapan⏱ 35 min

Cabbage okonomiyaki

Osaka's shredded-cabbage pancake, pan-cooked then covered in sweet-savoury sauce, mayonnaise and nori, here without dried bonito.

Easy·513 kcal
Creamy leek fondueFrance⏱ 45 min

Creamy leek fondue

A French leek fondue: sliced leeks cooked slowly in butter until soft and silky, then finished with a little crème fraîche.

Easy·352 kcalGluten-free
Butternut squash soupSouth Africa⏱ 50 min

Butternut squash soup

South African butternut squash soup, blended with onion and a tart apple, seasoned with nutmeg and served as a starter.

Easy·199 kcalGluten-free
Stuffed acorn squashUnited States⏱ 70 min

Stuffed acorn squash

Stuffed acorn squash baked in halves with butter and paprika, filled with creamed spinach and hard-boiled egg, from an American recipe printed in 1936.

Easy
Spaghetti squash sunomonoJapan⏱ 50 min

Spaghetti squash sunomono

Strands of boiled, well-squeezed spaghetti squash dressed in sweetened rice vinegar, salt and a little soy sauce, a common way of eating it in Noto.

EasyVegan
LanttulaatikkoFinland⏱ 115 min

Lanttulaatikko

A Finnish baked mash of swede sweetened with molasses and nutmeg, cooked slowly until the top caramelises.

Easy·294 kcal
Fonio couscous with vegetablesSenegal⏱ 65 min

Fonio couscous with vegetables

Fonio steamed twice and served with carrots and cabbage stewed in groundnut oil, with olives dropped in at the end.

Medium·483 kcalVeganGluten-free
PampoenkoekiesSouth Africa⏱ 45 min

Pampoenkoekies

Small pumpkin fritters fried in a pan and rolled in cinnamon sugar, the way Cape farm kitchens have made them for generations.

Easy·240 kcal
QuibebeBrazil⏱ 45 min

Quibebe

A pumpkin purée from north-eastern Brazil melted down with onion and garlic, seasoned with cumin and scattered with coriander.

Easy·197 kcalVeganGluten-free
TlayudaMexico⏱ 40 min

Tlayuda

Oaxaca's large thin tortilla, spread with black bean paste and quesillo, topped with cabbage and avocado, then grilled until crisp.

Easy·1020 kcalGluten-free
Sichuan hot and sour cabbageChina⏱ 18 min

Sichuan hot and sour cabbage

Flat cabbage torn by hand and seared over high heat with dried chillies, Sichuan pepper and Zhenjiang black vinegar.

Easy·161 kcalVegan
Moroccan Orange and Cinnamon SaladMorocco⏱ 20 min

Moroccan Orange and Cinnamon Salad

Cold orange rounds dusted with cinnamon and scented with orange blossom water, the standing dessert of Moroccan tables.

Easy·247 kcalVeganGluten-free
Vegetable PastillaMorocco⏱ 90 min

Vegetable Pastilla

A Moroccan warqa pie filled with pumpkin and onion under toasted almonds, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.

Hard·404 kcal
Ginataang kalabasaPhilippines⏱ 40 min

Ginataang kalabasa

This ginataang kalabasa recipe simmers squash and long beans in coconut milk with garlic, ginger and chilli, an everyday Filipino stew.

Easy·304 kcalVegan
Lumpiang gulayPhilippines⏱ 55 min

Lumpiang gulay

Filipino vegetable spring rolls filled with cabbage, carrot and tofu, fried until golden and dipped in spiced cane vinegar.

Medium·325 kcalVegan
Vegetarian casadoCosta Rica⏱ 50 min

Vegetarian casado

The Costa Rican plate lunch, rice and black beans gathered around a fried ripe plantain and a fried egg.

Easy·813 kcalGluten-free
LegimHaiti⏱ 100 min

Legim

Haitian aubergine and chayote stew cooked long over an epis base until it collapses into a thick brown purée.

Medium·221 kcalVeganGluten-free
VichyssoiseFrance⏱ 45 min

Vichyssoise

This vichyssoise is a sieved velvet soup of leeks and potatoes, enriched with cream and served ice cold under a scatter of chives.

Easy·427 kcalGluten-free
Vegetarian QuicheFrance⏱ 70 min

Vegetarian Quiche

A crisp shortcrust shell filled with softened leeks, mushrooms, a creamy egg custard and melting gruyère.

Medium·598 kcal
Porotos granadosChile⏱ 70 min

Porotos granados

A Chilean summer stew of fresh cranberry beans, melting squash and sweetcorn, perfumed with handfuls of basil.

Easy·368 kcalVeganGluten-free
Vegetarian locroArgentina⏱ 175 min

Vegetarian locro

A long-simmered Argentine winter stew of white maize, beans and squash, finished with a fiery paprika oil.

Medium·433 kcalVeganGluten-free
Vegetarian pinakbetPhilippines⏱ 45 min

Vegetarian pinakbet

A Filipino stew of garden vegetables, bitter melon, aubergine, okra and squash, bound in a savoury miso broth.

Easy·202 kcalVegan
Vegetable kottu rotiSri Lanka⏱ 35 min

Vegetable kottu roti

Chopped roti tossed with cabbage, carrot and egg, loosened with spiced curry sauce. Sri Lanka's loudest street food.

Medium·466 kcal
Mushroom SarmaleRomania⏱ 130 min

Mushroom Sarmale

Cabbage leaves rolled around rice, mushrooms and dill, then simmered slowly in a gentle tomato broth until meltingly tender.

Medium·412 kcalVeganGluten-free
Pumpkin soupAustralia⏱ 45 min

Pumpkin soup

An Australian winter staple of pumpkin simmered with coconut milk, ginger, garlic and mild curry powder, velvety and ready within the hour.

Easy·372 kcalVeganGluten-free
Ugali with sukuma wikiKenya⏱ 40 min

Ugali with sukuma wiki

Firm white maize porridge served with kale sautéed with tomato and onion, the everyday meal on most Kenyan tables.

Easy·524 kcalVeganGluten-free
Atakilt watEthiopia⏱ 55 min

Atakilt wat

Potatoes, carrots and cabbage stewed soft in a golden turmeric sauce with a restrained hand of berbere.

Easy·257 kcalVeganGluten-free
Gomen (Ethiopian collard greens)Ethiopia⏱ 45 min

Gomen (Ethiopian collard greens)

Collard greens simmered with onion, garlic, ginger and turmeric, brightened with a split green chilli. The gentle, fragrant side for injera.

Easy·204 kcalVeganGluten-free
Aloo gobiIndia⏱ 50 min

Aloo gobi

A dry curry of potatoes and cauliflower turned golden with turmeric, cumin and coriander, caramelised at the edges and soft inside.

Easy·308 kcalVeganGluten-free
Vegetarian garbureFrance⏱ 120 min

Vegetarian garbure

The great peasant soup of south-west France, savoy cabbage, turnips, carrots, potatoes and white beans slow-simmered in a thyme broth.

Easy·206 kcalVegan
Red kuri squash colomboFrench Caribbean⏱ 65 min

Red kuri squash colombo

The Caribbean curry in a mellow autumn version, red kuri squash, aubergine and mushrooms simmered in a creamy colombo sauce.

Easy·392 kcalGluten-free

← All recipes

Frequently asked questions

What is cooked in winter, in the northern hemisphere?

Two things: what is still standing in the ground despite the frost — cabbages, leeks — and what autumn put into store — squashes, swedes, hard roots.

Does winter have a fruit of its own?

Yes, citrus. Morocco's orange and cinnamon salad reaches the table exactly when citrus is the only fruit genuinely in season on this side of the world.

Is winter the same season everywhere in the world?

No. The seasons named here are those of the northern hemisphere and are reversed in the south: the winter described on this page is the summer of Brazil, South Africa and Australia.