The pestle does what a whisk cannot: it ruptures the starch cells without whipping them, which builds that elastic texture. A food processor heats the starch too fast and turns the paste gluey. The cream must be hot, since cold cream sets the surface of the taro and stops it absorbing.
The techniques this recipe uses
Drain and rinse
Canning liquid clouds a sauce and salts it blind: rinse until the water runs clear.
An estimate computed from the recipe quantities and the USDA food composition database. Real values vary with the products used.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a food processor instead of a pestle?
No, and this is the technical heart of the dish. Pounding ruptures the starch cells without whipping them, which gives the elastic texture you want, whereas a machine heats the starch too fast and turns the paste gluey. A wooden pestle and a large mortar remain the only good method.
Why must the coconut cream be hot?
Cold cream sets the surface of the taro and blocks absorption: the paste stays dry and lumpy however long you pound. Heat it with the salt to the first tremble, keep it warm, and add it in three goes, pounding between each.
How do I know the paste is ready?
It turns elastic and pulls away from the sides in one glossy mass. Expect about five minutes of pounding after the last of the cream goes in. If it stays grainy, the taro was undercooked or it was allowed to cool.